Best way to handle algae

by **Peterkarig3210** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:50 am

Sounds good. You're doing it right.

by **spongebob4460** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:22 am

Yes, sounds like its getting better. Test strips are inaccurate in my opinion. A lot of us use API liquid test drops, works like a charm.

Your feeding sounds great, doesn't sound like you are overfeeding at all.

Peter, with the biowheel filter pads you cannot change the carbon in them... you can cut it open and remove the carbon and potentially re-use the pad, but not put more carbon back, thats why I decided to buy an additional media bag, fill it with carbon, and plop it in my biowheel filter cabin.

Zambize, can you find out what biowheel filter number you have, this will let us know its capacity, and whether its enough filteration. Keep doing water changes, and clean the gravel well.

by **Zambize4899** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:28 am

My Penguin BioWheel model number is 150. It did say in the paperwork that I could add a second identical pad to the unit and improve filtration, but I assumed it was propaganda to get me to use twice as many pads. Should I put a second one in?

Zambize

by **Peterkarig3210** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:37 am

About the pads in the filter: There's two, one in front of the other. right? If so, it's recommended that you stagger replacing the pads so that you pull the dirtier one in the back and throw it away when it's time (after a month or so), and move the front one to the back. Then put a new one in the front. This way you retain a load of beneficial bacteria on at least one pad while you change the other out. In a non-planted aquarium most of the bacteria needed for cycling is in the pads and bio-wheels, so by leaving some of the media that's full of bacteria when you have to replace a pad or wheel maintains the cycle for the tank. If there's a wheel and two pads it's better to replace one of these at a time. It's better to change one pad every month than two pads every 2 months. Just some more to think about!

by **spongebob4460** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:48 am

I have the 150 as well. And peter has it right, you can fit two pads for more filteration, but this is the way i see things... since it can only move 150 gph, putting two filter pads only works well if you are overstocked with fish... otherwise, getting an additional hob filter would be better, as this will move more gallons per hour. I did this and it greatly improved my water quality, and im on a 20 gallon. Instead of a second filter pad, i place the only pad close to the biowheel, and this leaves room for a filter bag which i fill with carbon. My water has zero odor and stays super clean. just a thought.

by **miami754** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:56 am

Yeah, I agree with spongebob - do not put two filters in each side. Instead place a media bag full of carbon in the spot where the second filter bag should go and buy a second HOB filter if you want more filtration. That is what I do and it works like a charm. I also second the API test kit. The strips suck - stick to the liquid test kits.

It sounds like you are heading in the right direction. I am not sure why it is taking your tank so long to cycle, but I do have one thought. If you let the ammonia spike too high in the beginning, your nitrite spike can remain high for a very long time. This is a common problem with fishless cycling. People think that adding a lot of ammonia will be better for the cycle, but it actually ends up extending it. I am not sure what the stocking plan was for the fish you have in there, but if your ammonia had a really high spike, it can severely delay the cycling process. However, this doesn't help you now as the ammonia spike is over - I am just telling you for future references to keep an eye on how high you let the ammonia get when you start up a new tank. I do enough water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrite spike below or right at 1 ppm at all times during the cycle.

Good luck as you progress. I am much happier with your more current nitrate readings. I have no idea why your kit said 40 ppm is safe. Keep it below 20 ppm and preferably below 10 ppm if you can.

by **Zambize4899** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:21 am

What is a "hob" filter and why will it move move gph?

Darrien

by **miami754** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:33 am

hob = hang on back

gph = gallons per hour

by **spongebob4460** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:50 am

Your biowheel is a hob filter as it hangs on the back of your tank... and it moves more gallons per hour since it will suck in additional water from your water column, rather than just filter more of the "same" water that a single filter with two cartridges would. An additional filter will also allow more water to pass through a biological filteration, so this will keep your water quality much cleaner, if you just kept two cartridges in the same filter, it will increase the mechanical filteration by adding another layer for the water to pass through, but won't add much more biological filteration (since you need to replace the pads, this isnt the ideal place for bio to grow, but helps slightly).

by **Peterkarig3210** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:51 am

I'm always one to over filter and have multiple filters on all my tanks. Why would you use only one pad when you could use two though? The more surface area the water goes over or through is more important than how much water is being pumped through a filter as I understand. This is why an extra cylindrical sponge filter stuck on the end of the existing filter intake adds to the tanks ability to cycle. It gives you more places for the bacteria to colonise thus giving you more capacity to convert ammonia to nitrates, nitrites to nitrates. Wouldn't that be right?

Best way to handle algae

32 posts • Page 2 of 4

Best way to handle algae

32 posts • Page 2 of 4