jessikaye01

The tank is not cycled now. You added an UGF to it, meaning the substrate was either removed fully or moved from side to side to get plates in, this has stirred up any and all debris that was in the substrate (old food, poop etc) This will definately cause an ammonia problem, and it will be ongoing until the substrate matures again.

I would keep plants out of the equation at this time.

Do a deep and thorough gravel clean to remove any excess waste.

I would NOT be adding Prime, it will not solve the problem long term. Too many people rely on this as a fix for everything. Get your tank stable and happy and this is NOT required.

I definately would not be adding salt to an already unstable tank

I would be doing water changes every 2 days, approx 30% until the ammonia settles

Feed once per day and leave the fish hungry, do not be tempted to just give them a bit more!


After re-reading your posts, you fully pulled down the 75gal. A full pull down with have the tank back at having to do a full cycle again.
You sumped all the fish back into an uncycled tank, this is where your problems are coming from!

I don't know why you had your original ammonia problem, but when you removed or replaced your filter pads, you took the situation from bad to worse. When you medicate a tank, you should remove any carbon filters (carbon will neutralize the medication), but you should never remove all of your filter pads. In the last four years, i've only replaced one filter pad, and that is only because i used that pad to seed another tank.

You know, i understand and agree with the goal of avoiding unnecessary chemicals in your aquarium. It's a principle i live by. But, ich and fungal treatments are safe and effective. If you get an infection, do you take an antibiotic? I don't understand making fish endure an illness that you can easily cure. Why make a fish uncomfortable with temperature changes and salt? And probably even more importantly is to remember that prevention is worth a pound of cure. As someone previously stated, clean and healthy tanks are much less likely to become diseased.

After 12 days of constant monitoring and water change, today the ammonia went down to 1.0-2.0 (still high but the bottle was turning darkest green possible before-now just light green)

However, I am noticing that my Nitrite levels are higher than 10 (using the 5 way testing kit)
PH 7.2 (stays constant)
Alkilinity 0-40 (edges have some VERY dark green swirled about equaling the 180 mark)
Hardness 150 (has never changed)
Nitrite 10+ (the pink is darker than any pink on this test)
Nitrate between 0-20

After my water change, I tested it again.

No changes in the 5 way test BUT my ammonia went down to .50!!

Could someone explain to me if these Nitrite levels will fall with the falling of the ammonia???

I also added lava moss today, recommended for lowering Nitrite levels...???
Right thing to do??

This is a picture of my tank...thought maybe someone could offer ideas or criticism of the features...I.E. plants that may help the enviornment, etc.

You can sort of see that I have the 3 filters and a very large bubble stone that offers plenty of oxygen. I have 2 heaters as the little one wasn't heating well and it is cold here. :(
Temperature is 78/80 at all times.

I added Lava moss yesterday to the rocks and the car-just waiting for it to take hold.

Also, great news!!
Ammonia levels continue to fall, Nitrites are way up there and Nitrates are starting to rise!!

Thank you all for your time and input!!