NH3 Ammonia indicator

by **paconubbins** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:18 pm

Does anyone have any experience with the Mardel Ammonia indicators that you stick to the inside of your tank? It has a scale showing NH3 levels and is supposed to turn colors to indicate higher, potentially dangerous levels. I lost one of my new clown loaches and the others seem a bit stressed. The D.O. is almost 8 so I'm fairly certain that's not the problem but from what I read about ammonia toxicity it causes the fish to produce excess mucus and with mucus coated gills the fish have difficulty getting enough oxygen. My serpae tetra are totally fine but they're also a more hardy fish. Anyway, the loaches do have gill movement but I'm not sure how much is normal vs. excess. They were also were hanging out at the top of the tank (which I know is abnormal) but like I said the DO is fine. Anyway, this lead me to buy the ammonia indicator, which is reading perfectly safe levels (no color change). If it actually works I'm not sure what the problem is...or maybe it's just the loaches adjusting to the new tank? For what it's worth, the two remaining loaches do seem to be exhibiting more normal behavior now (it's been 1 week since I introduced them to the tank). Any thoughts/experiences regarding the ammonia indicator? Thanx!

by **a1k8t31524** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:06 pm

what is DO?

by **paconubbins** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:28 pm

Sorry...DO is dissolved oxygen. I work in the water quality field and that's a standard shortcut when talking about oxygen levels. Guess I should save the shortcuts for work.

by **a1k8t31524** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:16 pm

well what are the rest of your water readings?

by **paconubbins** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:16 pm

Well, I only did a few...pH was slightly over 7, dissolved oxygen was 7.9, heater is set at 80 but it seems to run 1 or 2 degrees low and nitrates were minimal - 2 or under. The ammonia indicator on the tank has it's first color change at 0.02 and there's no change in color. I don't have a test for nitrite.

by **Tmercier834747** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:34 pm

I'm assuming since you're checking for ammos your tank is still pretty newly setup. My best advice is to either invest in a kit which you can test ammos, nitrite, and nitrate with, or just take a sample to your LFS.

My guess is if you're no longer reading ammos then you're probably halfway through your cycle and the bacterial colonies have begun converting it into nitrite -- since you're not getting a reading on nitrates this makes even more sense. Though I've never heard of a nitrate test that gave negative readings..

by **paconubbins** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:38 pm

Yep, this is a new tank...up and running for 2 months with 8 serpae tetra...added 3 clown loaches 1 week ago. I thought the cycle would have done it's thing by now but I am reading 0 for nitrates. Tmercier83 - In the earlier e-mail I used a dash followed by a two to report nitrates but I didn't mean it to come across as negative two. Anyway, I've had samples to the LFS and for the past month they said "just about there". I'm am doing something to slow the process? I change 10% of the water weekly and vacuum the gravel when I'm doing the change. I did add a 1/2 dose of water conditioner with a water change after my 1 loach died. I leave the water sit out for at least 24 hours before adding to the tank, so chlorine shouldn't be a problem. I don't like the idea of treating with chemicals if I don't have to and the conditioner says it detoxifies ammonia. I thought I needed the ammonia for the bacteria I'm trying to establish. For now the remaining two loaches seem happy enough. I ran a few tests today...pH was slightly under 7 and nitrates were 0. As of Saturday I have an ammonia indicator hanging in the tank. It read 0 all day Saturday and Sunday but this morning it looked like the color was changing and this afternoon it's risen to the caution level (0.02). My original question was to find out if the indicators actually work...now that it seems they do I'm wondering why this is taking so long to cycle and whether or not I should continue water changes and gravel vacuuming while the tank is trying to cycle. Thanx.

by **Tmercier834747** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:16 pm

I wouldn't doubt it does work, I'd just consider a 3-way test a more beneficial investment than the overpriced (though they are convenient) hang-on live tests you're inquiring about.

If your conditioner detoxifies or removes ammos I wouldn't doubt that it might be slowing your cycle. I really wish pet stores would stop selling products that take advantage of the new aquarist..though I guess if they did the people making these things would be out of the job. They do work for what they're indicated to do but 9/10 they hinder natural processes that are essential for the longevity of your fish..

I treat my water with a simple dechlorinator. Apparently there's a difference between chlorine and chloramine found within tap water (this is what I understood at least) and chlorine is gassed out or w/e over a period of 24hrs while chloramine remains. That's why I use the dechlorinator. 3 drops in each gallon jug I fill gives me peace of mind. I've had the same $5 bottle for well over a year..and if it turns out it does absolutely nothing that time itself wouldn't take care of, I can still use the water from tap almost immediately after being treated.

And yes...though any ammonia test kit you get after the cycle is completed will read 0, ammonia still exists in the water. Fish don't suddenly start releasing nitrates afterall. ;) ammo and nitrite will continue to be quickly broken down by separate established bacteria colonies long after the cycle completes.

You should definately continue water changes and vacuuming. That is by far the very best method of keeping any toxins at tolerable levels.

NH3 Ammonia indicator

8 posts