Store Brand Water
18 posts • Page 1 of 2
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frmnutn2sumtn - Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:32 pm
Store Brand Water
Guys I am using ro water (from supermarket) for top offs and would like to switch to store brand water because its cheaper. The label says "conforms to all existing federal, state, and local standards for bottled water purity". Does this mean Reverse osmosis and/or distilled?? and is it safe to use without chems? Thanks dudes!!
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
Bottled water purity is great for human consumption but not for a marine tank.
The 2 things that totally contribute to and fuel nuisance algae in a tank are excess feeding and high TDS(total dissolved solids) water. Distillation and reverse osmosis just doesn't cut it when trying to achieve a TDS of zero.
My tap water has a TDS of about 70. The measurement after sediment, carbon and r/o still reads about 3-5 TDS. Only after going through the first DI (deionization) cartridge does it finally measure 0 TDS.
An Ro/di filter should be the first piece of hardware purchased for any marine tank, 2nd should be a good skimmer.
A lot of people end up giving up the hobby due to hair algae that they can't get rid of. RO/DI water is not a cure all but it does take a big problem out of the equation.
Pick up a cheap $15-$25 TDS meter and check the RO and distilled water you are using. You will be surprised.
The 2 things that totally contribute to and fuel nuisance algae in a tank are excess feeding and high TDS(total dissolved solids) water. Distillation and reverse osmosis just doesn't cut it when trying to achieve a TDS of zero.
My tap water has a TDS of about 70. The measurement after sediment, carbon and r/o still reads about 3-5 TDS. Only after going through the first DI (deionization) cartridge does it finally measure 0 TDS.
An Ro/di filter should be the first piece of hardware purchased for any marine tank, 2nd should be a good skimmer.
A lot of people end up giving up the hobby due to hair algae that they can't get rid of. RO/DI water is not a cure all but it does take a big problem out of the equation.
Pick up a cheap $15-$25 TDS meter and check the RO and distilled water you are using. You will be surprised.
Last edited by schigara on Mon May 19, 2008 1:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
Nope. The Chlorine and Chloramine have been removed by the RO process.
RO water is much better than straight tap and there is no benefit with using water conditioners at this point.
The only thing lacking after good RO water is good RO that has run through DI resin.
If you're just using tap water, by all means, keep using the water conditioners until you get an RO/DI.
RO water is much better than straight tap and there is no benefit with using water conditioners at this point.
The only thing lacking after good RO water is good RO that has run through DI resin.
If you're just using tap water, by all means, keep using the water conditioners until you get an RO/DI.
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
Check out http://www.thefilterguys.biz/
Click on RO/DI systems. The first choice for $124 is perfect but you would need to order the DI replacement cartridge for about $15 and use it to replace with the 3rd canister.
Click on RO/DI systems. The first choice for $124 is perfect but you would need to order the DI replacement cartridge for about $15 and use it to replace with the 3rd canister.
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snowboss - Posts: 458
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:53 pm
good info man.............i am useing RO water from wally world right now.....my hair algae is at a minimum but still shows it's ugly head now and again ....but not the lush green lawn it used to be by any means, algae hermit crabs have made a huge difference in my algae control -almost non exsistant.....................wal-marts "always" brand water comes in two types....green label is UV filtered and the blue label is RO {not Deionized} and they are both 66 cents a gallon.......Serieal32 and I found a Culigan dispenser at a different walmart and we pay 1.97 for 5 gallons of RO {again not DI} water {the first bottle is 15 bucks but then you own the container and refills are cheap......we take turns every other week or so and get 30 galons for the tanks in the house} @ 11.82 per week...................it's livable for now......glad to hear about the RO/DI vs. just RO......no one has been able to explain it to me until now.........so now the house RO unit will get a DI unit as well when it goes in......thanks SCHIGARA....................Boss
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
Your welcome Boss.
A few months back, before I bought a TDS meter, I started to get quite a bit a hair algae. I got the meter and the water out of my RO/DI was reading 16ppm TDS. I was feeding sparingly and the HA was still trying to get out of control.
I had never changed my RO membrane and all the filters were kinda old as well. Got a new membrane, sediment and carbon filters and added a 2nd DI canister and new color changing DI resins.
Just using pure 0TDS water was not stopping the HA because any ammount of waste from the fish continues to fuel the algae. I added 4 huge Turbo snails that would actually eat the 2in long HA and put a PhosBan Reactor in the sump and started running Pura PhosLock which is a grannular ferric oxide that absorbs the phosphates from the water.
Within 5 days, there was no trace of hair algae anywhere. Now I run Pura Complete in the reactor which has Carbon, GFO and Beta Ferric Hydroxide. It runs constantly and change out the media every 3 months.
No more algae problems or occasional diatom outbreaks.
A few months back, before I bought a TDS meter, I started to get quite a bit a hair algae. I got the meter and the water out of my RO/DI was reading 16ppm TDS. I was feeding sparingly and the HA was still trying to get out of control.
I had never changed my RO membrane and all the filters were kinda old as well. Got a new membrane, sediment and carbon filters and added a 2nd DI canister and new color changing DI resins.
Just using pure 0TDS water was not stopping the HA because any ammount of waste from the fish continues to fuel the algae. I added 4 huge Turbo snails that would actually eat the 2in long HA and put a PhosBan Reactor in the sump and started running Pura PhosLock which is a grannular ferric oxide that absorbs the phosphates from the water.
Within 5 days, there was no trace of hair algae anywhere. Now I run Pura Complete in the reactor which has Carbon, GFO and Beta Ferric Hydroxide. It runs constantly and change out the media every 3 months.
No more algae problems or occasional diatom outbreaks.
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a1k8t31524 - Posts: 939
- Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 5:10 am
i have a question about RO/DI filters it may be different for me since i am freshwater, but since a RO unit only filters 75- 150 gallons a day where does it fit into you filtration system is it filtered directly into your tank, inline with your other filters, i use a canister filter. Or is it strictly for say a resivior tank. Not keep in mind i am a freshwater guy and really have no clue about how saltwater is set up but i figured since you were talking about it i would ask a few.
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
It is just to filter the tap water to use to make new saltwater or to replenish water from evaporation.
Yes, just for a reservoir. It is not hooked up to or part of the actual tank water filtration.
Yes, just for a reservoir. It is not hooked up to or part of the actual tank water filtration.