frustration----hope u like to read

by **Peterkarig3210** » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:46 pm

Damned! This is like a code blue! Dr pimp is on the job!!!!!

by **tangerine** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:05 am

[quote]parameters are 1.21 sal[/quote]

hi there,ws there a typo in yr salinity. if not it is way too high

[quote]estimate of 5- 10 gallons top off weekly[/quote]

also,hope u are topping up with FW. if not that will account for yr high salinity.

one last thing,maybe it's just me but can leave some spaces/paragraph your postimgs? kin of hard to read especially if it's a lenghty post. no offence meant,JMO.

cheers.

by **noack214** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 4:26 pm

to start thanx to every one with all the fast replies. ok now my seahorses are in a seperate 10 gallon long due to the high current in the 72 they r only dwarf seahorses 2 in full grown.
Lighting comes on around 8am blue actinic----11am----3pm halides run with blue actinic 3--8 just blue. Less halide time keeps my heat down.
top off water is always fresh ro water never with salt..
yes my salinty quote was a typo its 1.021.
now as far as my live rock there is a problem when i first started i didnt have all the rock i have now so it is not on tank glass then sand around it. but as far as i knew that was so fish and sand dwellers could not undermine rock work and cause a collapse . so how can live rock cause toxic conditions????
as far as corals that have died include everthing from maxim clams 2 waving hands never tried no leathers though. i dont know if i fixed the flat worm problem but i dont see them i turkey basted for a week.
ill stay tuned for more info

by **snowboss** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:58 pm

depending on how much area your live rock covers, it could compact and house bad bacterias iunder the rock as there is no movement or filtration under there - -i think thats where Pimp is going with that question...but yes definately fish can undermine it and inverts as well........i think it was angus telling me he has a hermit crab that has moved a 2-3 lb piece of rock because he aparently didn't want to walk around it...lol

by **snowboss** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:59 pm

edit: will compact the sand {sorry}

by **Deltasigpony3648** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:12 pm

Hey im not an expert but 10.5 watts per gallon is really high IMO. I have 4.7 wpg and my corals are going great maybe you should get a guy to come in to test you lights when they are at full power

ghting

The lighting requirements for a FO or FOWLR tank are fairly flexible. Reef tank lighting requirements, on the other hand, are rather strict. Check the total wattage of your present tank lighting to see if it is powerful enough.

Light Intensity
The lighting rule of thumb for a healthy reef tank with SPS/LPS Corals, Anemones and/or Clams is 3.5 to 4.5 watts per gallon of tank water.
If you can not bring your lighting up to this level, you might want to stay with Soft Coral species, which normally require a bit less lighting (2.5 to 3.5 watts per gallon).
.
Photo Period
The "normal" lighting period for a reef tank is 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
Extending the time the tank lights are on (say, to 14 hours) will increase the total lumens reaching your corals with your existing lights.
Example: 257 watts for 14 hours is equivalent to 300 watts for 12 hours.
Bulb Age
How old are your bulbs?
Most bulbs should be replaced every 9-12 months as their spectrums tend to fall with use.
Lighting Upgrades
New or Additional Lights
Upgrade your present lighting with new and/or additional lights.
See Top HO & PC Fluorescent Light Fixtures for descriptions and sources.
Retrofit
Modify your present hood or canopy to accept higher light systems.
See Top PC & Metal Halide Retrofit Kits for kit descriptions and sources."

And you should really try to stabilize your heat think about it this way would you like your house to go from 75 to 55 every night

Delt

by **saltwaterpimp** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:30 pm

your numbers are way off ...sps corals and clams are the most demanding for light with a minimum of 7.5 watts a gallon..... you could try with 3.5 to 4.5 but the corals will quickly brown and you wont notice any growth mabie even death. and some softies can live in 2.5 wats a gallon but not all. for the best health in colored softies{green leathers/yellow toad stools/ green tip toadstools.neptheia ect will need at least 5 to 6 watts per gallon. and can take 8-10 watts a gallon easy.and for most corals with mh lighting 8-10 hours is more than enough..

by **Snowboss4492** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:40 pm

also if i might add - - X amount of watts per gallon is directly affected by the depth of your water ...I.E a MH light will make your corals grow like mad at ....say...24inches deep but that same fixture would cook them at 6 inches deep....so placement is critical, good luck, Boss

by **Deltasigpony3648** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:41 am

Ok they might be a little off cuz i got that off a site but look i have a frog spawn, a bubble coral, a hammer, and a acid green torch under a 260 watt fixture and run it for 12 hours (comes out to be 4.7 wpg and i have outstanding growth with corals doubling in size and splitting into 2 so im just coming off my own experience.... LOL And notice the disclaimer at the top of the posts IM not an expert....

by **Snowboss4492** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:51 am

lol i don't think anyone was saying you were completly wrong delta {for gods i know i wasn't lol} just adding our 2 cents in as well...so he can make an educated choice from others do' and don'ts....... you got a pretty nice tank BTW...Boss

frustration----hope u like to read

26 posts • Page 2 of 3

frustration----hope u like to read

26 posts • Page 2 of 3