sump build- blueshoes

by **blueshoes2208** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:31 pm

okay i attached the picture i made on PAINT, so hopefully yall can see it, the sump/ refugium will sit next to my tank, about 3 feet or so away, hopefully same height as the tank, the sump will hopefully be between 33- 40 gallons, the thing in the middle is my remora pro with the mag drive 3, hang on the back btw, first of all is this even a reasonable set up. i really have no idea what im doing in this DIY project...
next......
what pumps do i use to achieve the same flow so that i dont have one pump run dry or overflood the tank?

ALL COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME...... even if its hatemail.....

by **fihsboy** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:47 pm

personally.....I would just run an overflow.....its going to be 1000x easier then matching pump speeds.....thats literally impossible. Although it would be sweet if you could do it. I would run the 33 long as a sump....that tank is PERFECT for a sump, because your possibilities are endless with skimmers and sump configuration. thats jmo.....I would keep the sump as simple as posible......make the first part a place for filter socks....you could run two and change one out daily.....have about 8 filter socks and wash them once a week in the washer. second part could be for your skimmer.....but leave room for upgrades........then your last part your return.....hook up a float valve and you would be ready to go with an ATO as well. :)

by **blueshoes2208** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:54 pm

ok since ive avoided the sump concept every since i set up my tank....... basically in order for hte overflow to work the sump has to be lower than the overflow, in which its impossible to put it under my tank, next basically what an overflow does it just pull the water out of the tank and uses gravity to mimic the process of a pump correct? than how do you use a return pump to match the flow of the overflow???? thats hte same concept of trying to match 2 pumps?

by **fihsboy** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:58 pm

not exactly.....the overflow will slow down if the pump slows down.......and speed up if the pump speeds up. It uses balancing of forces between water columns to keep up or slow down with the water flow. So it may be rated for a maximum rating of 600gph......it will probably hold more around 800-900 and it can go down to 50gph......A overflow is a lot less likely to fail then a two pump system. If you just keep the sump 6-10 inches lower then the water level or your main tank.....that would be enough. You just need enough to get the water to fall a little bit so it can get speed to your sump. Im surprised you cant fit a 10 gallon under your tank. Thats what im using.........its only 20 inches I think.........but it works well as a sump even though its limited. A good thing to demonstrate is to siphon the water out of your tank into a bucket.......put the bucket next to your tank half way over your water line....start the siphon and once the water in the bucket has the same waterline as your tank.......the siphon will stop moving and become a water bridge.......if you lower the bucket again the siphon will start again and the lower the water line.......the faster the water will flow. :)

by **blueshoes2208** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:24 pm

yeah now i understand the concept alot better, thanks. I just didnt know that hte over flow rate would regulate based on the return pumps speed. The only thing is for one, i only have about 3 inches of room behind my tank and for two overflows are expensive haha cheapest one ive come across is like 60 bucks. I just spent another 150 bucks last night btw
on: new 50/50 coralife bulb, phosban, chemipure elite, 300 watt heater, filter bags, and jungle lab test strips, we will see how that goes.

by **gdeeber** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 4:02 pm

Blue: fihsboy is right about the overflow box, but you will need a valve on the return pump and all you have to do is close or open the valve a little to match the overflow box. If you buy an overflow box rated at 800 gpm then get a pump rated around 1000 gpm this way you can account for head pressure and enough to use a valve and adjust flow rate.

by **fihsboy** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 4:33 pm

Well..........if your tank didnt have water, I would say drill it. Glass-holes.com has a kit for a good price..........and its EASY to do. :) Otherwise just get a U-tube overflow. They sell them around here for 30 bucks.

by **blueshoes2208** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 2:21 pm

see the only thing im worried about is say i get my sump set up, but not my auto top off, and the suction is broke with the U- tube hose, then it wont work...........damn fish i sware.........

by **gdeeber** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:58 pm

Most U tube overflow boxes are split in two compartments, so when the power goes out the water in your overlow box remains in the U tube and half the overflow box. this will not be a problem. Every week I do a water change and turn my power off, after I change the water and turn power back on the flow continues without the need to prime the U tube. Here is a link to the overflow box I use.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=18358

by **fihsboy** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 8:59 pm

Well.......if you dont have an auto top off.......your display will run the same level no matter what.....so the siphon wont break either....your sump will however start to run dry in the return section. This is why sumps are so efficient. Your ATO is measuring the movement in about a gallon of water......so if the water drops half an inch.....thats just about 8oz or so.......it will refill the water quickly and your salinity wont move at all. :) If you add an ATO on your display......it will measure 1/4th an inch of what ever your display is.......so its going to add a lot more water at a time......which causes swings.

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

sump build- blueshoes

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