Seeking advice...
17 posts • Page 2 of 2
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bassdr17 - Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:07 pm
Hey guys. Just wanted to give you guys an update. I have continues doing water changes every 3-4 days and have successfully brought down both my nitrates and nitrites down to zero. I also added some aquarium salt which seem to bring back new life to some of my fish, but I also think that it helped bring down my high levels.
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peterkarig - Posts: 111
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:06 am
Good job with the nitrites going to zero. Nitrates will normally rise over time and is safe to about 20 ppm, which is when you should do a water change to bring it down.
Salt is used to help the fish ward off bacterial and fungal infections by helping the fish maintain it's slime coat.
Salt is used to help the fish ward off bacterial and fungal infections by helping the fish maintain it's slime coat.
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Snowboss4492 - Posts: 2098
- Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:24 pm
it sounds like you lots of good advice here and a good handle on the issue.................was just wondering what your useing for a water source? tap, bottled, RO, RO/DI ?????
Boss
Boss
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bassdr17 - Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:07 pm
I use tap water and I add conditioner to it. My water source is very hard so I have to add a Ph regulator. I was wondering, what the deal with aquarium salt? How often should it be added to your tank??
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Snowboss4492 - Posts: 2098
- Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:24 pm
try to get some RO water - -the culligan dispenser at our walmart is RO and after you buy the jug its like 33 cents a gallon.................you'll have to wait for a fresh water person to answer the aquarium salt question im a salt guy
if your water is hard you probably have silica or irons in there along with water ever else and that will cause algae blooms for a long time....i know its a pain in the tail but RO is the only way to keep things clear in the long run, its better than bottled water and RO/DI is basically sterile -
Boss
if your water is hard you probably have silica or irons in there along with water ever else and that will cause algae blooms for a long time....i know its a pain in the tail but RO is the only way to keep things clear in the long run, its better than bottled water and RO/DI is basically sterile -
Boss
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a1k8t31524 - Posts: 939
- Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 5:10 am
just my 2 cents..... my water levels have been ph of 6.8 ammo of 0 nitrate of 0 and nitrite of 0 for almost 2 years now not even one spike ever, the key i do a 20% water change every 3rd day, that and i have a heavily planted tank , plants always help i have a 10 g nano that i set up for a krib breeding tank too that i do the same thing to and i get the same results. once you get a good system down it take no time at all to do water changes , at first every 3rd day sounds like a pain, but i only spend about 15min total on both tanks a 55 and a 10 and like i said i have not had a spike for about 2 yrs , i even had to tear down my 55 for about a month and all i did was keep a little bit of the filter media wet and about half a 5 gallon bucket of wet gravel. and when i set everything back up it was like an instant cycle
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peterkarig - Posts: 111
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:06 am
My 100 gallon is a pain in the ass to water change. I use a 5 gallon "Sparklets" style water jug and a siphon and it takes about 30 trips back and forth to the bath tub. I guess I should get a Python one of these days. With big fish my nitrates rise pretty quick and I do a water change about once a month when the level gets about 30ppm.
I add a little water at a time over about a day so the fish don't get pH shock too.
I add a little water at a time over about a day so the fish don't get pH shock too.