red slime algae
12 posts • Page 1 of 2
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breaknrun911 - Posts: 146
- Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:20 am
red slime algae
snowboss put a thread up titled "Ive had it!!!!!!" JWEB gave BOSS some links that gave him some insight on how to obliterate his hair algae. does anyone have suggestions for me to get rid of my red slime? all my parameters are good checked them all. lighting is correct. i just dont understand what is providing them with the nutrients. and its getting annoying. I will clean my tank and within 2-4 days. guess what.....Its Back!
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puffedupseagull - Posts: 623
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:38 am
is red slime from high phosphate
* Lighting: The use of improper bulbs, lack of maintenance, and extended lighting hours are contributors that can lead to all sorts of algae problems. While these organisms do well in the 665 to 680 nanometer (nm) wavelength range, they are quite active bewteen the 560 and 620 nm range as well.
o Solutions: Only use bulbs that are designed for aquarium use, run the lights 8 to 9 hours a day, and following the basic wattage rule of thumb, try different types of bulbs to increase the intensity and the spectral qualities of the light in the aquarium, particularly when it comes to any type of full-spectrum or color enhancing tubes being used.
* Nutrients: Phosphates (PO 4 ), DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds), and nitrates (NO 3 ) are primary nutrient food sources for red and other slime algae.
o Phosphates (PO 4 ) are commonly introduced into aquariums by means of using unfiltered fresh tap water, and through many aquarium products that may contain higher than normal concentrations of this element, such as sea salt mixes, activated carbon, KH buffers, foods, and many other sources. Also, for established reef tanks the long-term use of kalkwasser precipitates phosphates out of the water, and these phosphate based compounds can settle on and in the live rock and substrate.
+ Solutions: Use RO/DI filtered make-up water, a high quality sea salt mix, and be aware of the elements contained in other common aquarium products you may be using. For solutions to problems that can arise from using kalkwasser
Allowing excess DOCs to accumulate in an aquarium in turn gives rise to nitrate (NO 3 ) problems. However, nitrates can also be introduced in the same manner as phosphates, and because it is the final byproduct produced in the nitrogen cycling process, it can naturally build to high levels due the lack of proper aquarium maintenance care. Another contributor to DOC/nitrate problems is when new live rock is introduced, as the curing process can add nutrients when some organisms on the rock dies off.
* Solutions: Practice good aquarium maintenance care routines! This includes keeping the substrate clean, cutting back on feedings, regularly rinsing, rejuvenating or changing any type of filtering or adsorbing materials (such as filter flosses, cartridges, bio wheels, sponges and carbon), performing regular partial water changes, and for DOCs in particular, adding a protein skimmer (read reviews & compare prices). For those with systems that have been running for some time and use wet/dry trickle type filters, the bio media in them, especially bio balls, are real nitrate factories, and therefore should be carefully rinsed and cleaned periodically.
* Even though hermit crab and snails won't eat this type of algae, to help keep the aquarium bottom clean and tidy add some tank friendly algae/detritus eating hermit crabs, one or two true crabs, shrimps, or other good substrate sifting tank janitors, or a fish. Scott Michael recommends the Orange-Spotted Sleeper Goby (Valenciennia puellaris) as being the best.
* When adding live rock, take the time to cure it properly.
* Important Note: If your tank is still cycling, DO NOT add any new animals, do ANY water changes, or perform ANY MAJOR substrate or filter cleaning tasks, other than to change dirty prefiltering materials and/or to QUICK siphon stuff off the bottom, until the tank has COMPLETELY FINISHED cycling. Because this type of algae does not attach well, it can easily be peeled off and removed by light siphoning, with larger floating pieces being removed with a net, or turkey baster.
* Carbon Dioxide (CO 2 ): Low water flow or movement throughout the aquarium produces carbon dioxide (CO 2 ), which algae consume.
* Lighting: The use of improper bulbs, lack of maintenance, and extended lighting hours are contributors that can lead to all sorts of algae problems. While these organisms do well in the 665 to 680 nanometer (nm) wavelength range, they are quite active bewteen the 560 and 620 nm range as well.
o Solutions: Only use bulbs that are designed for aquarium use, run the lights 8 to 9 hours a day, and following the basic wattage rule of thumb, try different types of bulbs to increase the intensity and the spectral qualities of the light in the aquarium, particularly when it comes to any type of full-spectrum or color enhancing tubes being used.
* Nutrients: Phosphates (PO 4 ), DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds), and nitrates (NO 3 ) are primary nutrient food sources for red and other slime algae.
o Phosphates (PO 4 ) are commonly introduced into aquariums by means of using unfiltered fresh tap water, and through many aquarium products that may contain higher than normal concentrations of this element, such as sea salt mixes, activated carbon, KH buffers, foods, and many other sources. Also, for established reef tanks the long-term use of kalkwasser precipitates phosphates out of the water, and these phosphate based compounds can settle on and in the live rock and substrate.
+ Solutions: Use RO/DI filtered make-up water, a high quality sea salt mix, and be aware of the elements contained in other common aquarium products you may be using. For solutions to problems that can arise from using kalkwasser
Allowing excess DOCs to accumulate in an aquarium in turn gives rise to nitrate (NO 3 ) problems. However, nitrates can also be introduced in the same manner as phosphates, and because it is the final byproduct produced in the nitrogen cycling process, it can naturally build to high levels due the lack of proper aquarium maintenance care. Another contributor to DOC/nitrate problems is when new live rock is introduced, as the curing process can add nutrients when some organisms on the rock dies off.
* Solutions: Practice good aquarium maintenance care routines! This includes keeping the substrate clean, cutting back on feedings, regularly rinsing, rejuvenating or changing any type of filtering or adsorbing materials (such as filter flosses, cartridges, bio wheels, sponges and carbon), performing regular partial water changes, and for DOCs in particular, adding a protein skimmer (read reviews & compare prices). For those with systems that have been running for some time and use wet/dry trickle type filters, the bio media in them, especially bio balls, are real nitrate factories, and therefore should be carefully rinsed and cleaned periodically.
* Even though hermit crab and snails won't eat this type of algae, to help keep the aquarium bottom clean and tidy add some tank friendly algae/detritus eating hermit crabs, one or two true crabs, shrimps, or other good substrate sifting tank janitors, or a fish. Scott Michael recommends the Orange-Spotted Sleeper Goby (Valenciennia puellaris) as being the best.
* When adding live rock, take the time to cure it properly.
* Important Note: If your tank is still cycling, DO NOT add any new animals, do ANY water changes, or perform ANY MAJOR substrate or filter cleaning tasks, other than to change dirty prefiltering materials and/or to QUICK siphon stuff off the bottom, until the tank has COMPLETELY FINISHED cycling. Because this type of algae does not attach well, it can easily be peeled off and removed by light siphoning, with larger floating pieces being removed with a net, or turkey baster.
* Carbon Dioxide (CO 2 ): Low water flow or movement throughout the aquarium produces carbon dioxide (CO 2 ), which algae consume.
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breaknrun911 - Posts: 146
- Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:20 am
wow puff thanks. i know what it is now. my water.....im going to start using distilled water. I never thought that was an issue. i may have to change salts too. will that be a problem?
how long do you think it will take to start and finish this headache?? Anyone?
how long do you think it will take to start and finish this headache?? Anyone?
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puffedupseagull - Posts: 623
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:38 am
changing salt wont matter.
Using RO or DI water will illuminate the crap. If you help the clean up process should not take that long.
Phosphates can be introduced by flake or pellet foods as well, check the label for contents.
Using RO or DI water will illuminate the crap. If you help the clean up process should not take that long.
Phosphates can be introduced by flake or pellet foods as well, check the label for contents.
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newbie916 - Posts: 375
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:12 pm
I dose my tank with Red Slime Chemi Clean. It works really well and I haven't had any negative effects on my corals. Red Slime usually only comes up every several months and one dosing usually takes care of it. I usually do 20-30% water changes every other week, which keeps it at bay. When I go on vacation and have someone else watch my tank is when it comes around. Just got back from a 16 day road trip and noticed some growing on my powerheads and a little on my sand. I used it last night and it's starting to clear up now.
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jweb - Posts: 318
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:45 am
I have slime algae too. I noticed that it only occurs in one section of the tank (the side where the water comes back into the aquarium from the sump). I add my new water to the sump and that's why it's there and not everywhere else. Also, when I use tap water the algae is dark dark red. Then I sometimes use RO water and it changes to a light brown and it is way less thick. I am planning to use only RO water as it does significantly decrease red algae even if you have other problems.
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fihsboy - Posts: 1837
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:20 pm
Heres another way to look at it..........corals are 90-95% water.....the water you put in your tank, makes your corals. use the best, and you will get the best. :)
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newbie916 - Posts: 375
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:12 pm
I only use RO water in my tank and I still get red slime every once and a while. However, it's very minor, but it needs to be dealt with before it takes over the tank. I usually just suction most of it out during a water change. Right now it's only on my powerheads because I have a lot of flow in my tank. It usually grows on slow current areas.