hair algae
9 posts
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somalia123 - Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:08 am
hair algae
i cant get rid of the hair algae in my tank my water is perfect, zero phosphates, zero nitrates. i dont know what else to do
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Deltasigpony3648 - Posts: 314
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:21 am
its reading zero because the algae is using all the phosphates and nitrates. figure out the root of the nitrates and bam dead algae
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schigara - Posts: 468
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:42 pm
You do have phosphates and nitrates. This is the reason why the hair algae is doing so well. Once hair algae gets started, it is impossible to stop with just good maintenance. You have to remove it by hand, get a skimmer or run the skimmer wetter, use rodi, feed much less, turn off the lights for days if you can and most importantly, run GFO(grannular ferric oxide) in a reactor and change the media out every 5-7 days.
The first few months is the time when that basic nitrogen cycle occurs and the first 6-12 months is when the other cycles we can't test for occur. Like Delta said, if you see excess nuisance algae, you do have excess phosphates and nitrates. You can do away with them in a "natural" way by feeding less, doing more water changes with rodi water and shortening the photoperiod but this can take forever and sometimes can not overcome the hair algae.
The best way is all the above plus a proactive approach to phosphate removal. Any GFO media is the best media to soak up the crap that is causing the problem. It must be used in the right way though. Putting gfo in a bag and letting the water run over it is junk. Spend $40 for a phosphate reactor and another $20 for a maxijet 400 and 5$ for a valve to control the flow. Use the gfo media in a reactor and change the media about every 5-7 days. This is for extreme cases where hair algae is out of control.
The first few months is the time when that basic nitrogen cycle occurs and the first 6-12 months is when the other cycles we can't test for occur. Like Delta said, if you see excess nuisance algae, you do have excess phosphates and nitrates. You can do away with them in a "natural" way by feeding less, doing more water changes with rodi water and shortening the photoperiod but this can take forever and sometimes can not overcome the hair algae.
The best way is all the above plus a proactive approach to phosphate removal. Any GFO media is the best media to soak up the crap that is causing the problem. It must be used in the right way though. Putting gfo in a bag and letting the water run over it is junk. Spend $40 for a phosphate reactor and another $20 for a maxijet 400 and 5$ for a valve to control the flow. Use the gfo media in a reactor and change the media about every 5-7 days. This is for extreme cases where hair algae is out of control.
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newbie916 - Posts: 375
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:12 pm
I agree with Schigara. I had a huge green hair algae problem for 4 months. It covered everything and I would have to unclog my powerheads every other day. I ended up buying a new tank and during the transfer I did a 40% water change and scrubbed each rock with a new toothbrush. I also pulled off all of the green hair I could find. I used a strainer to get most of the nasty nitrate producing gunk out. So far, my new tank is completely green hair algae free. All remaining reminence is gone and I've been doing a 20 gallon water change on my 95 gallon with 30 gallon fuge every 10 days.
I also cut down my feedings, use RO water, and bought a long spined urchin, which has been keeping all of the algae growth in my tank down. Good luck
I also cut down my feedings, use RO water, and bought a long spined urchin, which has been keeping all of the algae growth in my tank down. Good luck
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Snowboss4492 - Posts: 2098
- Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:24 pm
i was haveing a huge break out myself........so today i did a 27 1/2 % water change, scrubbed the rock off and put a phosban bag in the wet/dry filter .........so we shall see what happens ...................
Boss
Boss
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blueshoes2208 - Posts: 1077
- Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2008 4:01 pm
well... i got me a bubble tip nem today... :).... of course i paid hte extra 20 bucks for it to be propagated so it wasnt itsselt wild caught. Time to see how thigns work...
p.s. sorry for putting this under the algae problem thing ha didnt wanna post a new topic jus to say that
p.s. sorry for putting this under the algae problem thing ha didnt wanna post a new topic jus to say that
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puffedupseagull - Posts: 623
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:38 am
# Avoid direct sunlight falling on the tank, especially for prolonged periods. Unfortunately, despite the pleasant rippling light effects provided by sunlight, the rich lighting spectrum of the sun is likely to mean a constant battle against algae in most setups.
# Do not leave lighting on for more than 10-12 hours a day. Longer periods are likely to favor algal growth.
# Minimize nutrient levels with frequent water changes. In particular, it may help to keep nitrates, phosphates and silicates low if you have a persistent problem - either by the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or deionized (DI) water, or specific adsorption resins (e.g. API Phos-Zorb). However, note that although high levels of such nutrients may encourage algae, it is not generally possible to completely eliminate algae by attempting to reduce them, as algae can survive at levels below those which can be measured by a hobbyist test kit.
# Consider adding algae eating fish if appropriate to the setup.
#On your flake foods packet look for phosphates try to keep it real low.
High water current is essential. low phosphates and muck round with your lights even half an hour might reduce its growth by half
# Do not leave lighting on for more than 10-12 hours a day. Longer periods are likely to favor algal growth.
# Minimize nutrient levels with frequent water changes. In particular, it may help to keep nitrates, phosphates and silicates low if you have a persistent problem - either by the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or deionized (DI) water, or specific adsorption resins (e.g. API Phos-Zorb). However, note that although high levels of such nutrients may encourage algae, it is not generally possible to completely eliminate algae by attempting to reduce them, as algae can survive at levels below those which can be measured by a hobbyist test kit.
# Consider adding algae eating fish if appropriate to the setup.
#On your flake foods packet look for phosphates try to keep it real low.
High water current is essential. low phosphates and muck round with your lights even half an hour might reduce its growth by half
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gumbii - Posts: 1695
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:31 am
i got a lettuce slug at my LFS and it took care of it quick... now i need a sixline wrasse to eat all of they flatworms i have in my tank... sigh...